Jacquard, What You Are?
If you are trying to fill an awkward silence (for example, meeting a lot of people you don’t know) - just ask somebody: ‘Do you think jacquard is a fabric or a technique?’ That's a start of a quite interesting discussion and no one will remain indifferent :)) To have the right answer just read the text below.
The story begins with the brocade (predecessor of jacquard). Prior to 1801 brocades were woven on hand operated draw-looms by master weavers, who manually created the elaborate brocade patterns as they were woven in with the help of a drawboy, who stood on a perch above the loom.
Then, in 1801 Joseph Marie Jacquard demonstrated a new invention – a loom which ran on cards with holes punched in them. Each card represented one line of a pattern, with the holes allowing threads to pass through into the pattern, changing the colours and creating a design.
The Jacquard loom revolutionized the production of elaborately patterned fabrics.
Skilled craftsmen who could read pattern diagrams and manipulate the pattern as it was being woven were no longer needed to weave brocades and other designs, and the Jacquard loom did not require the assistance of an additional drawboy. Jacquard looms were so much easier and cheaper to operate that the old style of looms quickly became obsolete.
WHAT’S SO SPECIAL?
Since jacquard is a type of weave rather than a type of material, it can be made with a vast range of fibers. The advantages of jacquard materials depend a lot on composition. Still, there are characteristics they all share in common.
- wear-, wrinkle- resistance
- complexity of the design
- wide range of colors
Before the invention of the jacquard loom, such patterns were made by hand and involved a lot of labor and time. Nowadays, highly detailed motifs are woven automatically in a much shorter time. The secret is in controlling warp yarns. The jacquard loom creates a pattern by selecting and lifting warp yarns.
Modern technologies make it possible to produce sophisticated designs with a large or small repeat in the desired color range. You can weave anything you like using just one color or dozens of them: geometry, flora and fauna, abstract shapes, complex figures, etc.
The sources of information:
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